It's been a little bit since I was able to do a full model shoot, so I was prepared to shoot for a WHILE, but this shoot actually went by somewhat quickly
AAAND I got to play with my new 24-70 2.8 macro a bit more - yeayyy
So the models name is Cheri Rose, and she is AWEEESSSOME
We started off shooting for the goth/fetish (which is really fashion style nude work to be honest) - which is split lighting 2 3x4 profoto soft boxes on compact 300s at full power
I was shooting these ones at ISO 125 - F16 - at a 160th
After shooting that set we went onto the fine art stuff - which (ive been asked this alot) - I use two velour backgrounds - one hung up and one on the ground - i use split lighting about half way on the bottom background - set at 100% - but I have the model a couple feet in front of the lights in order to only get the scrim of the soft lighting from the 3x4 boxes.
this is shot at F22 ISO160 - at a 160th
After that we went onto the CORPSE PAINT project! woo!
I shot one set a bit differently then in the past - rather then using the same lighting/posing as the fine art on black - I had the model stand between the lights - and honestly didnt really like the outcome because it was kind of.. TOO lit for what I wanted, but I got a couple keepers, and thats pretty much all you could ask for
I dropped the Fstop to 18 for this - and the iso back to 125
why the iso change? - because ive shot the fine art project with the same settings (over 50 models) and will always alllwaayys shoot it at 160 iso for continuity...
anyway - here is a corpse paint shot on black with split light
The close up shot is with the 24-70 macro! starting to really dig that lens..
After that set I boomed a beauty dish as high as possible straight down at 1/2 power - kept it on black - same settings.
After finishing up with black we jumped over to the white background - which again - i pulled the dish back a bit to let the white go grey a bit - and these tend to be my favorite shots for the whole project/series aside from the on location stuff - for these shots i jumped between f16 and f20 - can you tell im getting WAY into shooting close ups of these?
After that - i brought down and broke down the boom - and nearly snapped my god damn wrist off - ugh - i gotta remember to always have help with it - seriously - right now it SUCKS to type - hurts alot! luckily it was my left wrist and wont effect my shooting all week.
Anyway! switched it over to white - split lighting - F18 - still iso125 at a 160th
see!
I cant wait to shoot more stuff on location for this - hopefully tomorrow I'll get to hit the studio - but I cant wait to hit outdoor shoots with this! forests - churches - etc.
anyhoo - ive been asked alot of blog questions on twitter - itd be awesome if you asked on here! :) dont be a-scared - ill answer them!
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thanks for posting (really enjoyed the jessielee one as well)
ReplyDeleteloving the corpsepaint series - gotta ask, do you get refraction issues at f18-f22? always tried to keep it down around f11-16 for the same DoF without the possible defraction.
thanks for all the tech info...i'm a geek and love reading that sort of thing.
thanks!
steve
hey steve! I honestly havent had any issues at f18-22
ReplyDeletei know eevvveerryyyyooonnneee says the sweet spotsare f10-14ish on alot of the lenses i use, and i have experimented with different settings a bit....
buuut, i can instantly walk into any shoot with my lights and know i need to shoot f160 at a 22nd iso 400 for an outdoor dynalite lit band shoot. and know thats the safe shot with the settings that have worked for tooons of shots.
i think i will be experimenting more in the mid fstops when time allots, just to see if the image quality is significantly improved, but when i have limited time, i have to get the safe shots first, and work with what ive been doing, before trying different settings.
i think ill try experimenting a bit on my shoot today, and will post the info on it tomorrow. we'll see how it goes :)
thanks so much!
J